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Mar 29 06 11:55 AM

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Please use this thread to post photos of housing that is appropriate and a good example for a guinea pig to live in.
Please include a small description with your photo and also state how many guinea pigs should be housed in the cage and the size of the housing/cage.

This thread has been created for viewers to use as a reference. You may reply to someone else's post as this is also a discussion thread.

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#7 [url]

Jun 18 06 12:20 AM

Nah dogs and cats have thousands of people to care for me. i say you should do Birds (well you do have avairies, ahem caviaries I mean LOl), perhaps rats, Mice? and obviously you cant do bunnies.


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#8 [url]

Jun 18 06 12:26 AM

Hey Em speaking of which I am highly considering taking in rats. Not mice I couldn't deal with em lol but yes rats are on the cards in the very near future....they're diet dosn't vary to the piggies overly much ( dont worry i definitely do my research before taking in any animals I know what's required for rats bedding/diet health wise etc )....umm yeah do you remember that 5 bank cage i was going to sell i put it on here for sale??? I was thinking of using that and putting little ramps through each level. I also had a couple of other ideas up my sleeve lol...

Hmm you know maybe if this was Australian Small Animal Sanctuary ASAS ( still catchy hehe ) ummmm we'd be able to extend the rescues etc...I know interstate they have bunny rescues I'd be taking in rabbits if we allowed them in qld but yeah if it extended to say rabbits/guineas/rats ( maybe leaving ferrets/mice out ) then it'd probably grow more and get more interest...hmm will see lol I'm going off topic might talk about this in another post lol. In saying this though I do like the fact we focus and have experience in one particular animal as it seems to have quite an impact....will see lol


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#9 [url]

Jun 18 06 12:29 AM

LOl I'd love to see some ratties. I like ratties unlike the rest of my family. I think they may be a wee bit vicous though but thats just me going by the scars on spikes back LOL


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#10 [url]

Jun 18 06 12:37 AM


Yeah I've heard there's quite a huge different between rats and mice rats don't poop or smell as much it's the smell factor about mice i really don't particularly like lol. I've always loved rats but don't think I could keep one lol it'd definitely only be foster...has anyone else on here had rats before?


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#11 [url]

Jun 18 06 3:33 AM

Funny you should mention all that Jess!

Only a couple months ago I was very close to adopting a pair of ratty friends! lol
I was a member on the QLD Rat Adoption/Rescue Shelter on the net & also was looking on pet classifieds etc for two female or two male rats.

Their diet doesnt differ that much from Cavies. Fruit & veg in moderation (only a very little bit), a good grain/lucerne/pellot mix.. they would LOVE your mix Jess, similar bedding requirements,etc. They just need more toys/hidey holes to play with unlike cavies which dont really play a whole deal. They are really inquisitive very lovable animals, they will play or cuddle into you, rest on your shoulder & follow you around, lol. If they are in their cage they will let you know they want to come out to you, they love people & are very close to their owners! My cousin had a rat when I was only young & I was in love!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have always wanted one!

The reason I ended up not getting one is because 'who would look after the two' for example when I went away & also they need a large cage (well not as large as two guinea pig but still big) & I was finding it hard to find a good looking cage that they wouldnt be able to escape from & was a decent size.

Otherwise I would have ratties by now lol
I was devasted to see those rats at Samford Produce, it broke my heart! They were all on top of eachother - adults with babies - males & females together etc. They have very short gestation periods with LOTS of babies per litter like 10-20! So they breed very fast! It was so stupied what the owner of Samford was doing, the cage was all wire no bigger than a shoe box with no food & only a water bottle. Grrr! Im glad I reported her, but when the rspca inspectors got there to check the situation out they werent there anymore...

Rats are awesome hey! Would be cool if you did a rat rescue too, there are sooo many rats out there being abused & dumped because people view them as vermin. But they arent & cant look after themselves in the wild; they dont have those instints anymore as they are bred to be pets,etc. They really are very lovely natured; boys do differ from females though. The females are more reserved & dont tend to want to play as much with you..they just like to cuddle in & sleep. Whereas the boys are very inquisitive & boystrous lol They love a good play & muck around with their owner! They do the funnest things; more than the girls; as they dont sleep as much. The boys do have a tendency to scent mark more than the girls..but its NO WHERE near as bad as a guinea pig urinating on you - both in size & smell! Rofl

Also the females can become aggressive when they are pregnant, but thats the only time they would.

They dont live very long lives either - only to about 2yrs old. Anything over that & they start to develop health problems & not generally live past 3-4 from my experience/knowledge. Because of the way they have been bred to be pets cancerous/tumour growths are common aswell as respiratory infections etc.. But I think the latter would be due to people housing them incorrectly. They need a mate to live with & lots of warm things to cuddle into in winter followed by the correct diet; which does differ slightly from summer to winter months.

image - rex baby

You can also get some amazing colours/breeds. Ie. Rex coats, Fawn & honey colours.. ahh list is HUGE!

We have enslaved animals and have treated our distant cousins in fur and feathers so badly that beyond doubt, if they were able to formulate a religion, they would depict the Devil in human form.

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#12 [url]

Jun 18 06 4:41 AM

Thats the Australian Rodent Rescue in Brisbane.
Its a great site! Very friendly

We have enslaved animals and have treated our distant cousins in fur and feathers so badly that beyond doubt, if they were able to formulate a religion, they would depict the Devil in human form.

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#13 [url]

Jun 18 06 4:53 AM

I think is a pretty sweet house. What do you all think? lol The log is so cute!

The lady that owns that cage runs the Sutherland Shire,Sydney Guinea Pig Rescue Shelter.


We have enslaved animals and have treated our distant cousins in fur and feathers so badly that beyond doubt, if they were able to formulate a religion, they would depict the Devil in human form.

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#14 [url]

Oct 8 06 12:31 PM

[color=red]make your own hutch[/color]

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Joined: 19 Sep 2006
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Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:32 am Post subject: make your own hutch


found this on the Burk's backyard website.

Guinea Pig Hutch

Scott Cam's weekend assignment was to build a hutch suitable for either guinea pigs (also called cavies) or rabbits. His design, which he described as the 'Rolls Royce' version, cost just under $200. It featured a closed-in sleeping area, ventilated exercise run, tough wire mesh to keep predators out and flyscreen to protect the animals from mosquitoes. The top frame was extended at one end to form handles and wheels were attached to the bottom frame at the other end, so the hutch could be easily moved around 'wheelbarrow-style'.
13 linear metres of 50mm x 50mm dressed pine
1 sheet weathershield ply (2400mm x 1200mmm x 12mm)
1 x 5m roll galvanised wire mesh (10mm x 10mm squares)
5m roll flyscreen
Nails or wood screws
Fencing staples
Shade cloth fasteners
2 wheels
4 butt hinges
2 coach screws
You can measure out this design to whatever length and size you require. Follow these simple steps to build a hutch just like Scotts or if you want to build a smaller version, just change the dimensions to suit.


1. Mark and cut the timber members. You need two lengths at 1500mm, two at 1700mm and 12 at 500mm. Once assembled, these will form two rectangular frames.
2. To build one frame, use one 1500mm length and one 1700mm length, attached together with three of the 500mm spacers. Attach the 500mm spacers at the ends of the frame, using the 1500mm length as your guide. This provides a 200mm length of timber at the end that will form a handle, just like a wheelbarrow. From the end opposite to the handles, measure 1100mm along the frame and attach a third spacer at this point. This spacer acts as a divider between the larger, exposed area of the hutch and the smaller, enclosed area. Scott used a nail gun to assemble the hutch, otherwise, you can pre-drill then screw the timber members together.
Repeat step two to build the second frame. Once joined together, these panels will make the two sides of the hutch.
3. Now you need to attach the two panels together. At each point where the existing spacers are attached on one frame, attach an additional spacer at right angles then attach the two frames together, forming a rectangular box (make sure that the handles are both at the same end and opposite each other).
4. Mark and cut three squares of ply to fit around the three sides of the smaller area to be enclosed. Cut two square corners out of one of these pieces to allow for the handles. Nail these squares to the frame, leaving the top and bottom exposed.
5. To build the large door, measure and cut two lengths of timber at around 1390mm and two lengths at around 390mm. These lengths allow for the door to be assembled and to fit in the top of the hutch frame with about a 5mm gap for ease of movement. Measure your frame and adjust the lengths of your cuts to suit.
The door for the smaller area of the hutch is made from ply. Cut a square to fit almost flush inside the frame (two sides around 315mm and two sides around 490mm).
6. Now cut the galvanised wire mesh to size for each panel - bottom and end. Where possible use one continuous length to wrap around the panels. Use fencing staples to attach the mesh to the frame. Do likewise for the larger door.
7. Before attaching the doors to the frame with butt hinges, slip each of the doors one at a time inside the frame until it is flush with the top of the frame. On the underside opposite to where the hinges will be screwed, mark a line on the frame where the underside of the door would sit. Now remove the door and affix a piece of off-cut to the frame where this mark is. This acts as a jamb for the door to rest on so it doesn't fall through the gap.
8. Screw two butt hinges to each door and then attach the doors to the frame.
9. Now repeat step six, using the fly screen. The mesh must be used in conjunction with the fly screen to provide strong security and also keep out insects. Attach the fly screen with shade cloth fasteners.
10. Attach the two wheels to one end of the hutch, on either side.
11. With the remaining left-over ply, cut a cover for the hutch with about a 100mm lip all around. This will keep the sun and rain off the animals.

Design hints
A hutch to accommodate two cavies should be a minimum of 90cm x 50cm. It is very important not to overcrowd the hutch, so if you want to keep more than two cavies, allow a minimum of 30cm square for each additional animal.
The hutch should have a ventilated wire section and a covered section. The covered section should be about 1/3 - 1/4 of the total length of the hutch.
Use untreated, dressed timber (treated timber could harm the cavies) and strong square wire, with squares no wider than 10mm. (Scott's tip: use tin snips to cut the wire to size.) Breeders recommend painting the wood with paving paint inside and out.
Each section of the hutch should have a lid that lifts up from the top. This makes cleaning easy and minimises disturbance for the cavies. Test the hinges before attaching them to ensure they are aligned correctly.
The hutch should be elevated to allow drainage of urine and faeces.
A separate piece of weatherproof material should be placed over the top of the entire hutch to protect the cavies from the elements. This piece can be removed or added, depending on weather conditions.

Further information
Commercial cavy hutches are available from pet shops and will cost from $50 to $200. Aviation tin snips range in price from $5 to $45.
Nail guns are available for hire for around $30 a day.

here is another website for ideas
_____________________________________________________________ PiparMaru

yeah thanks for that .. we'd thought about making one of those ... but i've got a gunna do man and well it's never gonna get done lol

But we looked at that before we got our first piggie a couple of years ago ... it's really quite good and you could add to it to make it longer and wider as well ... or even another level on top or 2 lol


Sleep now my forever beautiful Bella....I love you and miss you....


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#15 [url]

Nov 18 06 12:02 PM

ok this is pretty awesome as far as cages on ebay, would suit a couple of pigs and if it had a wire bottom its easily cut out. Good for a spare etc

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#16 [url]

Nov 21 06 4:06 AM

how awesome is this....wish it was in Brisbane..and she's selling it because she got a BIGGER one for them

here is a cheap quarantine cage for people in Melbourne

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#17 [url]

Nov 23 06 4:15 AM

This is a cute idea....


Sleep now my forever beautiful Bella....I love you and miss you....


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#18 [url]

Feb 14 07 12:12 AM

good size but ummm do you really think it's big enough for 8 pigs?

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#20 [url]

Sep 18 08 6:43 AM

another ebay find

hi I was ebay and this is the oven to cook you piggy in. It is horriable!! !! I couldn't figure out the link thing that all you smarties out there use but if you type this number into the search bar 150295280438 it will come up with it

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